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FAQs

If you still have questions after reading our FAQs, please contact us directly by phone at 813-288-8006 or email [email protected]

LED FAQs

Yes. The maximum remote mounting distance is dependent on the LED load, the size of the conductor and the characteristics of the driver. Please confirm the application with your Hatch sales representative before making a purchase.

LED is short for “light emitting diode”. LEDs are electrical components that convert electrical energy directly into light through the movement of electrons through the layers of the diode material. Today, LEDs are cost effective to produce and more efficient than traditional light sources which is why they are the fastest growing technology in the lighting industry.

An AC LED driver is a highly specialized LED driver that only works with AC LEDs. The most common application is for MR16 LED replacement bulbs. Hatch RS-Series LED drivers are specially designed to run these types of lamps. AC LED drivers will not work with standard constant current or constant voltage LEDs. The RS12-60M-LED is our most popular AC LED driver.

LEDs are low voltage devices and require a power supply that converts line voltage (usually 120V to 277V) to low voltage to run the LEDs. The LED driver serves this purpose by feeding constant and efficient power to the LEDs.

Hatch Constant Current LED drivers are available with different types of dimming. Hatch Constant Voltage drivers are non-dimmable. The dimming types are explained below:

  1. Phase Dimming
    • There are two types of Phase Dimming: Leading Edge Dimming and Trailing Edge Dimming
    • Hatch LED drivers with a “P” in the part number after the current rating are compatible with both Leading Edge and Trailing Edge Phase Dimmers (i.e. LC25-0700P-120Q is a 700mA driver with Phase Dimming built in)
    • Leading Edge dimming is sometimes called Forward Phase or TRIAC dimming
    • Trailing Edge dimming is sometimes called Reverse Phase or Electronic Low Voltage Dimming.
    • There is a massive installed base of phase dimmers which is why they are so popular.
    • There are no additional wires on a Phase Dimming driver. The dimmer is wired in line with the output of the driver.
    • Phase dimming is only available in 120V input
  2. 0-10V Dimming
    • This dimming type is used in most new construction and commercial applications.
    • Hatch LED drivers with a “Z” in the part number after the current rating are compatible with 0-10V dimmers (i.e. LC25-0700Z-UNV-Q is a 700mA driver with 0-10V dimming built in)
    • There are extra wires (usually grey and purple) on the driver that hook up to the 0-10V dimmer.
    • 9V is the maximum light level and 1V is the minimum light level.
    • 0-10V dimming is available in universal 120V-277V input.

Vf is short hand for “Forward Voltage”. Every LED has a specific forward voltage at which it turns on and emits its specified light output, assuming that it is drawing the recommended current. Each Hatch LED Driver has a set forward voltage range that can be found on the specification sheet.

The power factor is a measurement of how much energy is converted to useful power in the LED driver. It is a number between 0 and 1. If the power factor is 0, the driver is not using any of the incoming electricity. If the power factor is 1, the driver is using 100% of the electricity it is receiving. Most customers want a power factor greater than .9. Please check the individual specifications for the power factor of each driver.

An IP code, short for International Protection Marking, classifies and rates the degree of protection provided against intrusion of dust and water into an electrical enclosure. An example would be IP67. The first number, 6, denotes its dust protection rating. The second number, 7, denotes its water protection rating. A full list of the meaning of each code is shown below. UL does not recognize IP ratings and if a Hatch product does not have an IP rating on the specification sheet, it does not have an IP rating. In most instances, LED drivers do not require an IP rating because they are typically inside of a fixture, in which case the fixture would be IP rated and therefore the driver would be protected.

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    Surge Protector FAQs

    Hatch models LSP4, LSP2 and LSP10 only have 3 wires, therefore can only be wired in parallel.

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    The universal input model will begin clamping immediately when connected to a 347V circuit and will continuously clamp until the surge protector is at end of life. The -480V model however can be used effectively on a 347V circuit and is recommended.

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    SnapLock™ is a method to easily mount the LSP10. The case is designed to securely mount into a ¾” standard electrical knockout. The mounting method provides easy installation without any tools.

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    Hatch Surge protectors are designed to protect LED fixtures but they can also be used with electronic fluorescent and HID fixtures.

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    The LSP10 model has a built in thermally protected transient over-voltage circuit. The LSP4 and LSP2 do not have built in thermal protection. These surge protectors are intended for use in combination with properly rated overcurrent protection and in accordance with the intended application.

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    The LSP10 model provides single-phase protection for Line/Neutral, Line/Ground and Neutral/Ground. The LSP4 provides protection for Line/Neutral, Neutral/Ground, Line/Ground and an additional level of protection for Line/Neutral. The LSP2 provides two levels of protection for Line/Neutral.

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    Only surge protectors wired in series will turn the fixture off at end of life.

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    LED Emergency Driver FAQs

    Hatch ELC emergency drivers are UL Recognized for Factory installation ONLY.

    Hatch ELP emergency drivers are UL Classified for Field or Factory installation.

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    Hatch ELC emergency drivers are for use with Constant Current LED Drivers ONLY.

    Hatch ELP emergency drivers are constant power output so they can be used with existing Constant Current OR Constant Voltage LED Drivers.

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    The Hatch ELC emergency driver is a Constant Current Emergency Driver, therefore you must know what the LED Load Vf (Forward Voltage) is in order to select the appropriate dial.

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    While all Hatch LED Emergency drivers are compliant with the requirements of UL Standard 924, it is ultimately the responsibility of the designer/specifier/fixture manufacturer to assume the system delivers code compliant path of egress illumination in accordance with federal, state or local municipal requirements.

    Use the below calculated lumens to help validate your fixture/installation plans in accordance with applicable life safety codes governing your project.

     

    Part Number

    Rated Output Power Fixture Efficacy Calculated Lumen Output*

    ELC08-1248-UNV(-C)

    8W 100Lm/W

    800 Lumens

    ELC12-1248-UNV(-C) 12W 100Lm/W

    1200 Lumens

    * ELC Units are constant current products. Adjust output power based on LED load accordingly. W = V x I

     

    Example: You the manufacturer have a 50W fixture and the LED load requires 25V to operate- you intend to use the 12W ELC Emergency Driver. Select rotary dial #3, 24-36VDC, 330mA; 25V x 330mA = 8.25W. Therefore, calculated lumens on a 100 Lm/W fixture using the 12W ELC emergency driver would be 825 Lumens. Always make sure to confirm adequate lumen output for your specific application needs.

     

    Part Number

    Rated Output Power Fixture Efficacy Calculated Lumen Output **

    ELP05-UNV-K

    5W (Constant)

    100 Lm/W

    500 Lumens

    ELP12-UNV-K 12W (Constant) 100 Lm/W

    1200 Lumens

    ** When operating at ≤25°C, rated output power drops to 4.6W on the ELP05-UNV and 10.6W on the ELP12-UNV.

     

    Example: You want to use the ELP12-UNV-K (12W) with a fixture that has an efficacy of 98 Lm/W. 12 x 98 = 1176 calculated Lumen output. Always make sure to confirm adequate lumen output for your specific application needs.

     

    Kits can be installed with any fixture in the field or factory as long as the guidelines are met in the installation guide and proper steps are taken to ensure adequate lumen output.

     

    Part Number

    Rated Output Power Nominal Lumen Output***

    ELP05-UNV-K-DP

    5W (Constant)

    500 Lumens

    ELP12-UNV-K-DP 12W (Constant)

    1200 Lumens

    ***When operating at ≤25°C, rated output power drops to 4.6W and 460 lumens on the ELP05-UNV and 10.6W and 1060 lumens on the ELP12-UNV.

     

    You can install these kits with any fixture in the field or factory and can always use the calculated nominal lumen output above because the LED load is supplied as part of the kit.

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    Press the test button to cut the power to the AC driver and switch the system to Emergency Mode. Release the test button to return to Normal Mode. Switch off the circuit breaker to simulate a full power outage. For Initial Testing, allow the unit to charge approximately one hour, and then conduct a short discharge test. Allow 24 hour change before conducting a one hour test.

    NFPA 101, Life Safety Code outlines the following testing schedule:

    Monthly- Insure that the test button light is illuminated. Conduct a 30 second discharge test by depressing the test button. The LED Load should operate at reduced output.

    Annually- Insure that the test button is illuminated. Conduct a full 90 minute discharge test. The unit should operate as intended for the duration of the test.

    “Written records of the testing shall be kept by the owner for inspection by the authority having jurisdiction.”

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    Only the Hatch ELP05-UNV-K-DP and ELP12-UNV-K-DP can be installed with non LED fixture types- this is because the kit comes with the LED module that will be used in emergency mode.

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    Only the Hatch ELP05-UNV-K-DP and ELP12-UNV-K-DP can be installed with LED Tubes (Internal drivers)- this is because the kit comes with the LED module that will be used in emergency mode.

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    The test switch can technically be installed on either Line OR Neutral. Neutral is more convenient for most customers for installation purposes depending on where they want to install the test switch. If wired on Line the test switch is sometimes limited to where it can be installed depending on how the building’s electrical wiring is configured.

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    Unless you know the forward voltage and current of the LED load you will not know which dial setting to select. The ELC12 is for factory installation. By randomly selecting a dial setting you could cause major damage to the LEDs.

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    You must make sure that the emergency driver characteristics match those of the fixture it is intended for installation with. A) The fixture must have an output power equal to or greater than the intended emergency driver. B) The fixture’s LED Load must have an output voltage that falls between 12-39V for the ELP models and 12-48V for the ELC models.

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    The ELC and ELP emergency drivers include NiCAD batteries. Nickel Cadmium batteries can be stored in either a charged or discharged state. However, long term storage can accelerate battery self-discharge, and lead to the deactivation of reactants. Although the cells can be stored at temperatures between -20°C and +45°C, as with almost all batteries heat can cause deterioration of the active chemicals and it is better to keep the cells in a cool, clean, dry, non-corrosive environment. After prolonged storage, two or three deep discharge cycles may be needed to restore full capacity. When storing for periods longer than a year or two, some performance decay can occur – NiCAD batteries that are on a shelf for longer than a year should be subjected to deep discharge/charge cycle to prevent this decay.

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    CMH HID Ballast FAQs

    Hatch Metal Halide ballasts are designed to operate ceramic metal halide lamps and certain quartz lamps depending on ballast model. Please contact us for an up to date lamp compatibility chart.

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    The T Point is the spot on the ballast that is the hottest area. This area is where thermal couplers should be placed when doing a heat test.

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    Yes, Hatch recommends remote mounting of  pulse or probe start ballasts no further than 5 feet and HPS ballasts no further than 10 feet. This is because as lamps age and environmental conditions change, lamps may be more difficult to strike, resulting in performance problems.

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    Transformer FAQs

    A low voltage transformer is an electrical device that reduces 120 volts (line voltage) into 12 volts or 24 volts (low voltage). It is sometimes made by winding two wires around an iron core with one wire connected to the primary side (line voltage side) and the second wire connected to the secondary side (low voltage side). In the case of low voltage halogen or low voltage xenon lighting the low voltage transformer has an input or primary voltage of 120 volts (sometimes 277 volts) and an output or secondary voltage of 12 volts or 24 volts. An example of a core and coil type transformer is our LS and LT models.

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    Conventional low voltage transformers, also called magnetic core & coil low voltage transformers can be extremely large and heavy, consist of an iron core and two sets of wires as described in the previous paragraph. An electronic low voltage transformer, on the other hand, also contains an electronic device, called an inverter, which allows the size of the low voltage transformer to be substantially smaller. An inverter and a small transformer make up the main components of what we normally call an electronic low voltage transformer. An example of our electronic transformers is our RS and VS lines.

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    The inverter conditions the voltage to change direction at a frequency of about 20,000 times per second (called Hertz or Hz) as opposed to the normal power from your wall outlet, which changes direction at a frequency of 50Hz or 60Hz. The higher the frequency, the smaller the low voltage transformer can be. Most electronic low voltage transformers provide high frequency AC output.

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    Electronic low voltage transformers are very small and light compared to magnetic low voltage transformers, in most cases small enough that fixture manufacturers can often incorporate them within their lighting fixture rather than leaving the customer to find a hiding place. Even when not incorporated within the lighting fixture an electronic low voltage transformer is very easy to install in a small hidden location.

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    Simply – temperature rating. When size and weight are not an issue and a high temperature is needed, a magnetic transformer is a good choice. Hatch magnetic low voltage transformers can handle normal operating temperatures of 180 degree C.

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    Please make certain that the black and white input wires (primary side) of the low voltage transformer are connected to the power line (120 volts or 277 volts) using wire nuts that the two red output wires (secondary side) of the low voltage transformer are connected to the low-voltage light source using wire terminal blocks of appropriate size (for solid contact). Low voltage halogen or low voltage xenon lighting systems carry relatively large currents so all of the low voltage connections must be very tight to prevent arcing (a possible fire hazard) within those connections. Note: Do not connect 277 volts to a 120 volt transformer, and also do not connect 120 volts to a 277 volt transformer. Make sure you have the correct transformer that matches your input voltage.

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    (A) Please make certain that the black and white input wires (primary side) of the low voltage transformer are connected to the power line (120 volts or 277 volts) and that the two red output wires (secondary side) of the low voltage transformer are connected to the low voltage light source (12 volts or 24 volts). Most failures occur as a result of reverse or improper wiring.

    (B) Check the filament of the lamp to see if is burned out. (Remember the glass envelope of a halogen lamp should NOT be touched by bare hands because the natural oil from your hands will cause the lamp to burn out prematurely.)

    (C) Check the connection somewhere between the output wires of the transformer (red wires) and the lamp. The transformer has a sophisticated short circuit/overload protection system. If it senses a short or a bad connection or too many lamps (ie: too much wattage) it wil cause problems. Check all the connections for tightness, corrosion, arcing etc. If all are tight and clean and you do not have more than the maximum wattage of lamps on the system, then look at the lampholder itself. Make sure the contacts in the lampholder where the lamps plug in are still tight and do not show signs of carbon buildup or arcing.

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    Yes, they can be remote mounted up to 10 feet, after 10 feet there is a voltage drop of approximately .07 volts per foot.

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    No, some Hatch electronic transformers feature “Demand Circuit Design”. The transformer will not produce voltage unless a lamp with at least the minimum wattage required is connected to it.

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    Yes.

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    Many models of Hatch low-voltage electronic transformers utilize a soft start circuitry to maximize lamp life. The soft start circuit ramps up the lamp filament voltage slowly when the lamp is cold.

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    You must use a digital volt meter capable of reading 25KHz or higher waveforms, we suggest a Fluke Model 5220A or equivalent.

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    This wire is only for OEM type applications. It is used to attach a 1 meg ohm linear taper potentiometer for dimming via a potentiometer. You do not have to use the blue loop to make the unit work, it is only there if you want to use a potentiometer to dim your fixture (example: Desk top lamp).

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    In some cases Hatch halogen transformers can drive LED MR16 loads but Hatch does not warrant them for these applications.

    The reason for this is that the halogen transformers were designed long before LED MR16 designs emerged and they use a completely different topology/control circuit. The halogen transformers do not ‘self-oscillate’ – they depend on the impedance of the lamp itself to create a resonant circuit. LED MR16 lamps have their own mini-driver board in them so they do not present an appropriate impedance to the transformer. The LED version of the transformer overcomes this problem by using a special control integrated circuit that has a fixed oscillating frequency. Although this topology can be used to drive a halogen lamp, the reverse is not true. An RS-LED transformer should always be used if the load is intended to be a self-ballasted LED MR16 load.

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    CFL Ballast FAQs

    No, Hatch electronic CFL ballasts will only operate 4-pin lamps.

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    This is the point at which the ballast temperature is measured. “T” point measurements should be made with a thermal couple bonded to the point.

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    The max design temperature that we recommend for our ballast are 70¡ C at the T Point with a 25¡ C ambient. If the expected application is a high temperature environment, contact factory for assistance if your application will exceed the 70¡ C max design temperature.

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    A thermal couple should be bonded to points closest to the lamp and the “T” point. A 3-4 hour soak time should be allowed for the system to reach thermal equilibrium.

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    Ensure both red wires are connected individually to the same filament and both blue wires are connected individually to the other filament.

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    Hatch CFL ballasts will start at -25 degree C.

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    Software FAQs

    An incorrect Part Number was stored in Rev 1 of the software for this model (-HH versus -H at the end of the Part Number).  Rev 2 of the software will correct this issue and allow the user to program the unit correctly.

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    The incorrect value (14 at the low end) was entered and stored in Rev 1 of the software. Rev 2 of the software will correct this value to 18V (at the low end). The Hatch Spec sheet is already updated to reflect this.